After a week under the trees in the Vosges, we came down into the vineyards and found ourselves in a string of villages so pretty they look like someone has coloured them in. Alsace sits in that sliver of France pressed up against Germany, and it feels like both at once. The villages are half-timbered and flower-boxed, the food is hearty, and the Route des Vins d'Alsace threads them together through rolling vineyards. Most of the best Alsace villages are within a 20 minute d